你可能会疑惑为什么我戴着太阳镜，其中的一个答案就是因为我今天的主题是魅力。所以，我们都认为自知什么叫做魅力。大家请看。这是非常有魅力的影星，比如玛琳·黛德丽。也有男性。非常迷人。不仅仅因为他可以射击，开车--你知道，他是喝酒的，事实上他的身上总是有股酒香--当然，他也总是维持一副绅士模样。不过我认为魅力实际上有更为广泛的含义。其中一部分当然是那些电影明星和小说人物所展现出来的，但也有其他的表现方式。

A magazine? Well, it's certainly not this one. This is the least glamorous magazine on the newsstand -- it's all about sex tips. Sex tips are not glamorous. And Drew Barrymore, for all her wonderful charm, is not glamorous either. But there is a glamour of industry. This is Margaret Bourke-White's -- one of her pictures she did. Fantastic, glamorous pictures of steel mills and paper mills and all kinds of glamorous industrial places.

杂志？嗯，当然不是这本。这是新标准下魅力值最低的杂志--里面充斥着sex技巧。sex技巧并不具备魅力。Drew Barrymore，她所有的迷人之处，也谈不上具有魅力。但是却存在着一个魅力产业。这个是 Margaret Bourke-White的其中的一幅作品。美妙的，迷人的图片，身后却是钢铁厂，造纸厂和各种充满魅力的工业场所。

And there's the mythic glamour of the garage entrepreneur. This is the Hewlett-Packard garage. We know everyone who starts a business in a garage ends up founding Hewlett-Packard. There's the glamour of physics. What could be more glamorous than understanding the entire universe, grand unification? And, by the way, it helps if you're Brian Greene -- he has other kinds of glamour.

这是车库经理人神话般的魅力。这是惠普当初起家的车库。我们知道任何一个从车库起家的创业者最终都成了惠普的融资人。这是物理学的魅力。还有什么能比洞察整个宇宙，伟大的统一更加具有魅力呢？而且，顺便提一下，如果你是Brian Greene，这很有帮助，因为他还有很多其他类型的魅力。

And there is, of course, this glamour. This is very, very glamorous: the glamour of outer space -- and not the alien-style glamour, but the nice, clean, early '60s version. So what do we mean by glamour? Well, one thing you can do if you want to know what glamour means is you can look in the dictionary. And it actually helps a lot more if you look in a very old dictionary, in this case the 1913 dictionary.

这是非常非常迷人的：外太空的魅力——不是外星人式的魅力，而是漂亮、干净、60年代早期的魅力。那么到底什么叫做魅力？当然，如果想了解魅力的含义，你可以做的一件事情就是查看字典。事实上如果你去查阅很古老的字典，其实是很有用的，这是1913版的字典。

Because for centuries, glamour had a very particular meaning, and the word was actually used differently from the way we think of it. You had "a" glamour. It wasn't glamour as a quality -- you "cast a glamour." Glamour was a literal magic spell. Not a metaphorical one, the way we use it today, but a literal magic spell associated with witches and gypsies and to some extent, Celtic magic.

因为时代变迁，魅力会随之有着相应特定的含义，而且这个词汇实际上和我们设想的方式是截然不同的。你很有魅力。这并不是说它是一种品质--你可以将其抛开。魅力是一种字面意义上的魔力咒符。而不是今天我们所使用的，隐喻的方式。而是一种和女巫、吉普赛人紧密联系在一起的魔力咒符，甚至在某种程度上，可以是凯尔特魔法。

And over the years, around the turn of the 20th century, it started to take on this other kind of deception -- this definition for any artificial interest in, or association with, an object through which it appears delusively magnified or glorified. But still, glamour is an illusion. Glamour is a magic spell. And there's something dangerous about glamour throughout most of history. When the witches cast a magic spell on you, it was not in your self-interest -- it was to get you to act against your interest.

随着时间的推移，大约在20世纪之交，它开始采用另一种欺骗方式——这个定义是指任何人为地对一个物体感兴趣或与之联系，而通过这个物体，它似乎被错误地放大或美化了。但是，魅力仍是是一种幻觉。魅力是一种魔力咒符。在历史的大部分时间里，魅力都是危险的。当女巫对你抛出一个不符合你自身利益的魔力咒符，它就会使你做出违背自己意愿的事情。

Well of course, in the 20th century, glamour came to have this different meaning associated with Hollywood. And this is Hedy Lamarr. Hedy Lamarr said, "Anyone can look glamorous, all you have to do is sit there and look stupid." (Laughter) But in fact, with all due respect to Hedy -- about whom we'll hear more later -- there's a lot more to it. There was a tremendous amount of technical achievement associated with creating this Hollywood glamour.

当然，在20世纪，魅力开始和好莱坞联系在一起，从而拥有了各种不同的含义。这是Hedy Lamarr。Hedy Lamarr说，“只要你坐在那里装出一副傻样，任何人都可以看起来充满魅力。”但是事实上，并无意冒犯Hedy Lamarr的意思--我们接下来还会讲到她--还有很多事情要说。创造这种好莱坞式魅力，暗中联系着大量的科技成就。

There were scores of retouchers and lighting experts and make-up experts. You can go to the museum of Hollywood history in Hollywood and see Max Factor's special rooms that he painted different colors depending on the complexion of the star he was going to make up.

这里有大量的修图师，灯光专家和化妆专家。你可以去好莱坞的博物馆去领会好莱坞的历史，然后看看属于Max Factor的特定工作室，就是在这里，他根据要化妆的明星的肤色，画出不同的颜色。

So you've got this highly stylized portrait of something that was not entirely of this earth -- it was a portrait of a star. And actually, we see glamorized photos of stars all the time -- they call them false color.

所以你得到了一幅高度程式化的肖像画，它不完全是自然的产物——它更像是是一颗人造卫星。事实上，我们经常看到明星的照片，他们称之为假像。

Glamour is a form of falsification, but falsification to achieve a particular purpose. It may be to illuminate the star; it may be to sell a film. And it involves a great deal of technique. It's not -- glamour is not something -- you don't wake up in the morning glamorous. I don't care who you are. Even Nicole Kidman doesn't wake up in the morning glamorous. There is a process of "idealization, glorification and dramatization," and it's not just the case for people. Glamour doesn't have to be people.

魅力是一种伪造的形式，但是通过其要达到某种目的。或许是去打造一个明星，或许是营销一部影片。这都牵涉到很多的科技因素。它并不是--魅力并不是一种--你并不会早上一起来就魅力照人，这和你是谁无关。即使Nicole Kidman也不会一早起来就魅力十足。这需要一个理想化，赞颂化，戏剧化的过程，这并不是只适用于人。魅力并不一定要和人相关。

Architectural photography -- Julius Schulman, who has talked about transfiguration, took this fabulous, famous picture of the Kauffman House. Architectural photography is extremely glamorous. It puts you into this special, special world.

建筑摄影——朱利叶斯·舒尔曼（Julius Schulman）曾谈到变形，他拍摄了这幅考夫曼住宅的绝妙、著名的照片。建筑摄影是十分具有魅力的。它能让你置身于这种非常特别的世界中。

This is Alex Ross's comic book art, which appears to be extremely realistic, as part of his style is he gives you a kind of realism in his comic art. Except that light doesn't work this way in the real world.

这个是Alex Ross的动漫艺术，看起来非常真实，实际上营造这种真实感也是他的艺术风格的一部分。只是在现实世界中，灯光效果却不是如此。

When you stack people in rows, the ones in the background look smaller than the ones in the foreground -- but not in the world of glamour. What glamour is all about -- I took this from a blurb in the table of contents of New York magazine, which was telling us that glamour is back -- glamour is all about transcending the everyday. And I think that that's starting to get at what the core that combines all sorts of glamour is. This is Filippino Lippi's 1543 portrait of Saint Apollonia.

人群按排列座的时候，后排的人要比前排的人看上去小一些。但是在魅力的概念中不是这样。还有什么和魅力相关的呢--这是我在纽约杂志的目录中的一个宣传广告中发现的，这意味着魅力的回归--魅力的宗旨就是不断进取。而且我认为这已经开始和魅力的核心非常接近了，不管是什么形式的。这是Filippino Lippi在1543年所作的圣女Apollonia的肖像。

And I don't know who she is either, but this is the [16th] century equivalent of a supermodel. It's a very glamorous portrait. Why is it glamorous? It's glamorous, first, because she is beautiful -- but that does not make you glamorous, that only makes you beautiful. She is graceful, she is mysterious and she is transcendent, and those are the central qualities of glamour. You don't see her eyes; they're looking downward.

我也不知道她是谁，但是在15世纪，这相当于我们今日的超级名模。这是一幅非常迷人的肖像画。为什么它迷人呢？它之所以迷人的第一个原因是美丽，但这还不够，美丽和魅力是两码事。她高雅，神秘的形象中透露着卓尔不凡，这些是魅力的核心元素。你看不见她的双眼，她在向下看。

She's not looking away from you exactly, but you have to mentally imagine her world. She's encouraging you to contemplate this higher world to which she belongs, where she can be completely tranquil while holding the iron instruments of her death by torture. Mel Gibson's "Passion Of The Christ" -- not glamorous. That's glamour: that's Michelangelo's "Pieta," where Mary is the same age as Jesus and they're both awfully happy and pleasant.

她也没有把目光从你的身上移开，但是你却禁不住的思考她的世界。她在鼓励你去探索她更深层次的世界，远离喧嚣，手握着把她折磨致死的铁器。Mel Gibson的“耶稣受难记”--不属于这类范畴。这就是魅力。这是米开朗琪罗的圣母怜子雕像，这里的圣母玛丽与耶稣同龄，而且都十分开心，无忧无虑。

Glamour invites us to live in a different world. It has to simultaneously be mysterious, a little bit distant -- that's why, often in these glamour shots, the person is not looking at the audience, it's why sunglasses are glamorous -- but also not so far above us that we can't identify with the person. In some sense, there has to be something like us.

魅力使得我们能够进入另一个世界。这同时要求其不得不保持一定的神秘性，一点点的距离。所以你经常可以在这些魅力的摄影中发现，画面中的人并非看着观众。这也就是太阳镜之所以迷人的原因了，但是也不能高高在上不可靠近。在某种程度上，必须存在着和我们相似的因素。

So as I say, in religious art, you know, God is not glamorous. God cannot be glamorous because God is omnipotent, omniscient -- too far above us. And yet you will see in religious art, saints or the Virgin Mary will often be portrayed -- not always -- in glamorous forms. As I said earlier, glamour does not have to be about people, but it has to have this transcendent quality.

因此正如我说过，宗教艺术中，你知道，上帝是不富有魅力的。上帝不能带有这种特质因为他无所不能，无所不知--这一切都使得我们只能敬畏之。然而你可以在宗教艺术中经常发现描绘圣人，或者圣母玛利亚的作品--竭力展现出其迷人的一面--虽然也并不经常。就像我之前说的，魅力并非和人沾上关系 但是卓越的品质这一点是不可或缺的。

What is it about Superman? Aside from Alex Ross's style, which is very glamorous, one thing about Superman is he makes you believe that a man can fly.

试想一下超人？除了Alex Ross非常迷人的造型，超人能深入人心的一个原因就是他使得你相信人是可以飞的。

Glamour is all about transcending this world and getting to an idealized, perfect place. And this is one reason that modes of transportation tend to be extremely glamorous. The less experience we have with them, the more glamorous they are. So you can do a glamorized picture of a car, but you can't do a glamorized picture of traffic. You can do a glamorized picture of an airplane, but not the inside.

魅力的宗旨就是提升这个世界的可能性达到一种理想化，完美的境界。这也就是为什么当代的交通运输方式如此的吸引人。而且对于我们来说，它们越是陌生，其迷人的色彩就越浓厚。因此你可以制作一张魅力跑车的图片，但是你不能用同样的方式把“交通”描绘出来。你可以制作一张彰显飞机的魅力的图片，但对其内部机制却不能。

The notion is that it's going to transport you, and the story is not about, you know, the guy in front of you in the airplane, who has this nasty little kid, or the big cough. The story is about where you're arriving, or thinking about where you're arriving. And this sense of being transported is one reason that we have glamour styling. This sort of streamlining styling is not just glamorous because we associate it with movies of that period, but because, in it's streamlining, it transports us from the everyday.

这是因为那种“被运载”的概念，而且问题并不仅仅是——你知道——就像在飞机上你前面有个人，他有一个讨厌的小孩，或者经常咳嗽，很烦人。这个问题是关于你将要到达的地方，或者是在思考你将要到达的地方。这种被转移的感觉是我们自我感觉拥有魅力的一个原因。这种流线型的造型不仅魅力四射，还因为我们把它与那个时期的电影联系在一起，在它的流线型设计中，它让我们从日常生活中跳脱出来。

The same thing -- arches are very glamorous. Arches with stained glass -- even more glamorous. Staircases that curve away from you are glamorous. I happen to find that particular staircase picture very glamorous because, to me, it captures the whole promise of the academic contemplative life -- but maybe that's because I went to Princeton. Anyway, skylines are super glamorous, city streets -- not so glamorous.

同样的--拱形是非常富有魅力的。再加上彩色玻璃--就更加迷人了。那远远看去弯曲的楼梯十分吸引人。我恰巧发现某种特定的楼梯图片非常吸引我。因为对我来说，它抓住了那种思想者学术生活的精髓，或者因为我在普林斯顿大学上过学吧。不管怎么说，天际线是超级迷人的，城市街道——却没有。

You know, when you get, actually to this town it has reality. The horizon, the open road, is very, very glamorous. There are few things more glamorous than the horizon -- except, possibly, multiple horizons. Of course, here you don't feel the cold, or the heat -- you just see the possibilities. In order to pull glamour off, you need this Renaissance quality of sprezzatura, which is a term coined by Castiglione in his book, "The Book Of The Courtier." There's the not-glamorous version of what it looks like today, after a few centuries.

你知道，当你真正的，走进一个真实的小城。地平线，开阔的公路，如此如此的迷人。还有几样比地平线更富有魅力的事物。除了，那种，多重地平线的可能，不过，这里你不会感到冷，或者是热--你看到的只是可能性。为了顺利的呈现出魅力，你需要这种sprezzatura的文艺复兴的特性，这是卡斯蒂格利昂在他的书《朝臣之书》中创造的一个词。在经历了几个世纪以后，这个版本以今天的眼光看来已经不再令人印象深刻了。

And sprezzatura is the art that conceals art. It makes things look effortless. You don't think about how Nicole Kidman is maneuvering that dress -- she just looks completely natural. And I remember reading, after the Lara Croft movies, how Angelina Jolie would go home completely black and blue. Of course, they covered that with make-up, because Lara Croft did all those same stunts -- but she doesn't get black and blue, because she has sprezzatura.

sprezzatura是那种浑然天成的艺术。它使得事物简约易懂。你不用去想象妮可·基德曼是如何穿着那件裙子的，这种着装在她身上就是如此的自然。而且我还记得在看完Lara Croft电影之后，我阅读着Angelina Jolie如何偏题鳞伤的回到家中。不过当然，伤的痕迹都用彩妆遮盖住了，因为Lara Croft也上演了同样的特技，但是sprezzatura让她看着毫发无损。

"To conceal all art and make whatever is done or said appear to be without effort": And this is one of the critical aspects of glamour. Glamour is about editing. How do you create the sense of transcendence, the sense of evoking a perfect world? The sense of, you know, life could be better, I could join this -- I could be a perfect person, I could join this perfect world. We don't tell you all the grubby details.

彩妆隐藏了之前的痕迹，或者说，彩妆让它们显得更自然。这是魅力的一个核心方面--魅力意味着雕琢。你是如何创造卓越的感觉，唤起一个完美世界的感觉？那种，你知道，生活可以更美好的感觉，我可以成为其中的一份子--我可以成为一个完美的人，我可以成为这个完美世界的一部分。我们并不需要让你知道所有乱糟糟的细节。

Now, this was kindly lent to me by Jeff Bezos, from last year. This is underneath Jeff's desk. This is what the real world of computers, lamps, electrical appliances of all kinds, looks like. But if you look in a catalog -- particularly a catalog of modern, beautiful objects for your home -- it looks like this. There are no cords. Look next time you get these catalogs in your mail -- you can usually figure out where they hid the cord.

这个，这是去年好心的Jeff Bezos借给我的。在Jeff的桌子下面是这个样子。这是电脑的真实呈现，看上去有各种各样的灯具和电子元件。但是如果你在一个产品目录中查看--尤其是为你现代化的、美丽的家添置物件的商品目录中--它是这个样子的。没有任何线路。但你下次查看邮箱中这些目录的时候--你可以轻易弄明白他们把杂乱无章的线路藏在哪了。

But there's always this illusion that if you buy this lamp, you will live in a world without cords. (Laughter) And the same thing is true of, if you buy this laptop or you buy this computer -- and even in these wireless eras, you don't get to live in the world without cords. You have to have mystery and you have to have grace. And there she is -- Grace. This is the most glamorous picture, I think, ever. Part of the thing is that, in "Rear Window," the question is, is she too glamorous to live in his world? And the answer is no, but of course it's really just a movie.

但是如果你买下这个灯具的话，总是会有这种幻觉，那就是你生活在一个简洁整齐的世界中。另一个事实就是，如果你买下这个笔记本电脑或者台式机--那么即使在目前的无线世界中，你的生活里也不可能一点线路板都看不见。你必须拥有神秘感和优雅感。这就是--格蕾丝（意指“优雅”）。我认为，这是有史以来最优雅的一张图片，部分是因为电影“Rear Window”的缘故。问题是，她的优雅是否已经超出了当时的世界？答案是否定的，当然，这只是一部电影。

Here's Hedy Lamarr again. And, you know, this kind of head covering is extremely glamorous because, like sunglasses, it conceals and reveals at the same time. Translucence is glamorous -- that's why all these people wear pearls. It's why barware is glamorous. Glamour is translucent -- not transparent, not opaque. It invites us into the world but it doesn't give us a completely clear picture.

这还是Hedy Lamarr。而且，你知道，这种风格的顶盖是非常迷人的。因为，就像太阳镜一样，它在遮掩的同时也欲盖弥彰。半透明是富有魅力的--这就是为什么人们穿戴珍珠的原因。同时也是为什么酒吧酒具富有魅力的原因--半透明才吸引人，而不是透明，或者不透明。它使得我们进入了一个世界，却不将其完整的呈现出来。

And I think if Grace Kelly is the most glamorous person, maybe a spiral staircase with glass block may be the most glamorous interior shot, because a spiral staircase is incredibly glamorous. It has that sense of going up and away, and yet you never think about how you would really trip if you were -- particularly going down. And of course glass block has that sense of translucence. So, this session's supposed to be about pure pleasure but glamour's really partly about meaning. All individuals and all cultures have ideals that cannot possibly be realized in reality.

还有，我认为，如果Grace Kelly是最富有魅力的人，也许玻璃镶嵌的旋转楼梯就是最富有魅力的室内快照了。因为旋转楼梯拥有如此不可思议的吸引力。那种悬上即离的感觉，然后你永远不知道整个过程是怎样的。如果你知道，大概就是下来的时候吧。而且毋庸置疑的，玻璃砖具有那种半透明的感觉。因此，这部分讲到的是纯粹的愉悦。不过魅力确实是一定程度上和内涵相关的。所有的个人所有的文化都在现实世界中，几乎无法实现所有的理想。

They have contradictions, they uphold principles that are incommensurable with each other -- whatever it is -- and yet these ideals give meaning and purpose to our lives as cultures and as individuals.

他们有矛盾，他们坚持的原则是彼此不可调和的——不管是什么——然而这些理想给我们作为文化和个人的生活赋予了意义和目标。

And the way we deal with that is we displace them -- we put them into a golden world, an imagined world, an age of heroes, the world to come. And in the life of an individual, we often associate that with some object. The white picket fence, the perfect house. The perfect kitchen -- no bills on the counter in the perfect kitchen.